Why Taiwan? You mean Thailand...Right? That seemed to be the question of the hour (even Taiwanese people seem baffled). So why did we choose to visit a random island off of China rather than any other place on the map? Good old fashioned word of mouth is the plainest answer. When dishing about her travels through Asia, my dear friend Hartman's whole face lit up when describing her time in Taiwan. She boldly stated that you cannot not have fun in Taiwan. No matter the season you will fall in love. So obviously I was intrigued. My sister Gabby and I planned to go away Feb, but after a few google searches a million questions arose. What if it rains the whole time, or it's too cold or jam-packed with Chinese New Year traffic. Maybe its just too random, why does no one post pics of their latest Taiwan getaway? But Hartman said it was a dream, the best she's seen...screw it let's do it! Our flights were locked down before I could over think things. The time is now and the place is Taiwan. No backsies NO tracksies.
We planned to loop around the island, starting and ending in Taipei. A three week sampler if you will, hitting up the major cities, national parks and natural treasures. Though I wouldn't call it love at first sight, we were smitten by day 4 and falling hard by week 1. Despite the rain, we spent gleeful days visiting cat cafes, exploring night markets, discussing Taiwanese politics and sampling teas and other tasty treats. We admired adorable angel faced girls with perfect hair (seriously 0 frizz), pondered the origins of Hello Kitty and even bought matching overall jumpsuits. Our hostels were too adorable. Bright and bubbly with quirky decor, laid back vibes and chill music. We were met with warm greetings and big smiles, both in and out of our accommodation. The locals we have come across are crazy nice and go above and beyond to help without any hesitation or hint of irritation. Everyone has been so honest (returned my camera and water bottle (OK I'll be more careful. Gosh!), no haggling necessary. Many people don't even lock up their bikes! It weirdly feels like a kind of utopia where people are good, kind and happy. So I guess it is possible. Hope is humanity is restored!
So when the sun did finally come out (week 2) we were ecstatic. But not normal happy (bc we were normal happy the whole time). Like crazy happy. The feeling that we could do anything and everything, that no obstacle could be too great. And our new friend Open (yes, her name is Open :)) told us about this incredible hot spring. All natural, tucked away in a secluded gorge surrounded but glowing jade. But the spring was not in my guidebook and there was little information online. Open drew us a map in Mandarin so we could easily ask for help and insisted that journey would not be easy but doable by those up for the challenge. The crew at our hostel were far less encouraging. They immediately tried convincing us to visit closer easer hot spring. They said it's too far, too remote, too difficult and too dangerous to access without a car or Mandarin skills. We were down, our dreams in the mud, but I kept thinking what's the worst that could happen? We get as far as we can and if our hostel friends are right we cut out loses and head back. If Open is right, we reach paradise and achieve greatness. I'll take the later.
So we were off, our plan: cab from Dulan to Taitung City (5am!), 6:20 bus to the small town of Lidao, 2 hour walk (or hitch) to the hike's entrance in Mortien and start the treacherous descent down the cliff to the gorge. Our first obstacle was where to leave our luggage. We planed to drop our bags at the station but at the wee hours of the morning both bus and train stations where deserted. Damn. Luckily at 6am our prayers were answered. We spotted a lady opening up shop and we pounced, begged, pleaded and she eventually agreed to hold our bags for the day. After that it was smooth sailing for a while. We arrived in Lidao without a scrape and began walking...and walking...and walking. Um, are we going the right way? No cars or people in sight. And did I mention the last bus back was at 3:20pm? No time for games. We weren't ready to admit defeat but let's face it, we were thinking it. And then we spotted a car and a man and soon enough we had a ride! Success! But wait, the drive was only supposed to take 15 mins...have we gone too far? So after an hour (!!!) detour we reached the entrance of the hike. Time was scarce but we were determined. We ran/trotted down the hill followed by a pack of enthusiastic dogs, until we reached a steep trail and began our descent, skipping stairs to maximize time. After 30 minutes the trail became steeper and steeper. Thankfully ropes were in place to help visitors repel down, so we tarzaned our way to the bottom of the gorge. Now it was time to cross the icy river (and I'm talking arctic sh*t). We left our bags and with just a camera in hand we shrieked our way to the other side. But then the path was no longer clear, rocks to the left and right with no people to ask or signs to follow. So we made a judgment call and began climbing the rocks surrounding the river. Slippery and cold, we just kept moving and then from the top of a big bolder we saw it. The green jade, blue waters and dramatic backdrop. It was breathtaking. A secluded paradise. We just stared, then smiled, then laughed and laughed. But when we climbed down to feel the water it was freezing! And that's when we saw the steam from the other side - a small area under the glowing jade across the gorge. That must be it! But the rapids felt too strong. Could we cross? Was there really a choice? We were SO CLOSE. So like ripping off a band-aid we delved into the waist deep ice box and waded across into the boiling hot spring and suddenly the pain was gone and all was forgotten. A magical little world just for us and could not have been more glorious.
I'm not going to rehash the details of our journey back. The wounds are too fresh and tears may or may not have been shed. By me. But I will say that from this journey I have realized many things. That with effort and determination much more is possible then may appear at first glance. That by trusting my instincts, a world of potential began to unfold leading me to a place so pure and wonderful. And sometimes the road less traveled is the most extraordinary.
To Nora and Silvia, Hartman's Taiwanese friends who graciously hosted us when we arrived, Tina a stranger who lead us to a delightful vege restaurant when we were famished and decrepit, Wei-Jung, my badass friend who organized a 3 day trek to Walami (permits and all), prepared lavish meals (for real, gourmet!) and taught us some Mandarin to scrape by, we say Xie Xie! You are goddesses.
Though Taiwan is "random" to many, for me, taking a stroll off the beaten path has lead to some of my most genuine and rewarding travel experiences. While a Google search can take you far, it is through talking to people, looking beyond popular opinion, embracing spontaneity and keeping an open mind that take you on those truly wonderful and unforgettable adventures.
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